City of Nampula – kushukuru

I still remember with my heart bubbling that night I didn’t sleep because of so much anxiety. In a few more hours, I was going to discover a “new world.” The destination was Nampula, land of muthianas oreras, mucosos, beads and all kinds of beans. But you don’t get to the city without being delighted by the Incomáti, Bazaruto, the Indian Ocean with its different names, mountains and indescribable landscapes that, seen in drone fashion, make us rethink about a supreme being, whatever it is. But, after all, this wasn’t the best part. The best of places are the people.

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As soon as I arrived, I met what would become a great friend, my personal motorcycle taxi driver, whose name doesn’t even occur to me, but the memories of our adventures in Nampula are unforgettable. Why remember this? It’s just that you can’t think of the city of Nampula without the motorcycle taxi drivers. It is with thunderous honks and unmeasured racket that the days begin and end. But I tell you: that juggling act you tend to do to cross the road is memorable. It’s as if we were exposed to a wall and they all, the taxi drivers, were targeting us. Crazy. It is through these trips in moto-taxis that capulanas of all qualities and colours can be glimpsed. People are seen at the peak of the mosques, all in cofiós and jubós. That’s also where you can see the twins, not just the common two, but thousands from Rua dos Bombeiros, from the central hospital and very close to the Lotus School. These siblings, always in dresses and, as if everyone else were invisible, only talk to the other twins. When wandering around Nampula, this isn’t even the most exotic. There’s something unusual about those faces that already at an early age have the shiny earring in their nose and the syndrome of: what if I also pierced mine? Few don’t.

There were days when I caught myself far away in thoughts, after all, I was walking around Nairuco. A breathtaking complex that can be discovered 30 minutes or less from Waresta. The idyllic sight of Nairuco is reminiscent of Eden.

The idyllic sight of Nairuco is reminiscent of Eden.

The city of Nampula is the best place to start traveling through Mozambican literature and beyond. On the main avenues, there are young people who are very excited about books at bargain prices. With luck, you get inconceivable discounts for first-hand books, because most of them are not. You walk through Xicandarinhas, Magustanas, Ualalapis, Xigubos, without spending your last thousand.

There is a Museum to be discovered, it is said that it was the first to be built outside the capital. Is it true? You have to visit it. For me, the best thing about the Museum is what’s behind it. A group of young people, adults and old people work together to work beads, blackwood, capulanas, straw and a multitude of things that leave the place with an irresistible charm for photos and, why not, take a little bit of Nampula home. A corner not to be missed is the Makonde Art Gallery, which, with a variety of tools, allows you to appreciate and make this typical art.

After my walks towards the new that the city of Nampula offers, I cannot help but describe a multicoloured phenomenon that can be experienced in communities: the traditional ceremonies. You can’t pass through Nampula without seeing the Muali up close, which is a practice for girls after menarche. It is, without a doubt, a mandatory stop because it allows to demystify, deconstruct and rethink cultural practices that, through contact with other cultures, end up being seen with malice.

In short, the city of the muthianas oreras overflows with beautiful smiles, jubós, beads on the waist, friendliness and ardent nights: it’s history. They are stories, essences, depths, roots, it is life. We will always kushukuru.

The city of the muthianas oreras overflows with beautiful smiles, jubós, beads on the waist, friendliness and ardent nights: it’s history.

▶ How to go

From Maputo to Nampula it takes only 2 hours, via Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique. By bus, it takes two days to travel.

▶  Where to sleep

A cozy and relaxing atmosphere is Ruby, with free artistic activity options daily in its garden. For those who want something bigger, the New Hotel offers unparalleled service.

▶ Where to eat

At Delicato there is a variety of sweets to try and fall in love with. For those who want something more sophisticated and a more elegant atmosphere, you can head to Mood, with live music on Thursdays.

▶ What To Watch Out For

Have a reliable taxi driver, as from 7pm onwards, there are no tickets and you can’t even take a taxi.

Issue 76 Nov/Dec| Download.